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Category Archives: Cooking with Beer

The Genius of Kobe Desramaults

Kobe Desramaults is the head chef at In De Wulf (what a great name!), located in Danrouter, Belgium.  Lambickx pairs perfectly with his dish of lightly cured sea bass, radish, shellfish broth, and sloeberry vinegar.  But until Wendy returns to the US with Kobe’s cookbook in hand, we are recipe-less.

But in place of a recipe, I thought I’d share a few facts about Kobe’s culinary genius.  In De Wulf sits in the place of Kobe’s childhood home, which evolved from a cottage, to a brasserie, to an inn.  Kobe studied under some of the world’s best contemporary chefs - Sergio Herman and Carles Abellán – then returned home to transform his mother’s restaurant into a Michelin-star winning establishment.  In De Wulf received its first Michelin star in 2005, making Kobe the youngest Michelin starred chef in Belgium; to date, In De Wulf now boasts two Michelin stars.  Recently, Kobe has been named one of the top 100 chefs in the world, and at 31, he is among the youngest.

Kobe’s cooking focuses on bringing out the best in local ingredients, no matter the season.  In his own words:

“Every day there’s something changing. It’s to be found in some little things like the scent of the first elders bringing me directly back to my childhood, the wild dock leaves in the talus, the glance of the first blackberries…

It’s the same feeling a want to reflect in my kitchen. The menu doesn’t change every season but when the time is right. I call it ‘organic kitchen’ because I have to adjust it to the things happening around us. The menu never changes from dish to dish… I see it as a never ending project. Every day there is worked and puzzled on. Adapted but never feigned. It especially has to be ‘real’, sometimes brutal, soft, just natural. Being honest of who we are and where we are as the biggest challenge.”

In Kobe’s spirit, why not improvise a dish out of local ingredients?  Let us know what
amazing dish you have created, and since Lambickx dazzles with most food pairings, try it with your creation and let us know what you think!

Follow Kobe on Twitter (@kobewulf) and prepare to be tantalized, scintillated, and culinarily inspired by both his tweets and this beautiful video of In De Wulf’s offerings:

 

The View from Monte Amiata – Home of Amiata Brewery

I am posting this little travel update from Livorno. Our room at the NH Grand Hotel Palazzo overlooks the Tyrrhenian Sea.

Livorno

We lunched at Ristorante Miramare in Marina di Castagneto Carducci, not far from Bolgheri (about 50 km from Livorno). Incredibly beautiful day and magnificent lunch of pasta with shellfish and salad. It is warm enough that people are swimming in the sea. We had to have a glass of Bolgheri, the famous local white wine so we could better appreciate the splendor and particularity of Doppia Vecchia Bastarda, Birra Amiata‘s vintage heirloom chestnut beer aged in Bolgheri barrels. We learned that the chef has consulted with Lidia Bastianich about Liguria’s cuisine, a cuisine we will come to know better when we have dinner with our friends Claudio Cerullo (one half of Amiata’s brewing brother duo) and his wife Patricia. They have promised us a Livornese fish feast!

Working backwards, we reached Italy and the village of Arcidosso on Monday. We have been spending time in the company of the very loving, talented, hardworking and thoughtful Claudio and Gennaro Cerullo and their families, eating together, visiting the brewery, touring the little hill towns on foot, and of course drinking the local wines and beers!  It poured rain when we lunched at the Cerullo house on European Labor Day (May 1) but that did not put the slightest damper on a great meal prepared by Carla and Sophia. 

We stayed at a sweet little inn: Locanda del Prete which the owner (Carlo Innocenti) renovated himself. 

He is a former adman, cameraman, and he even ran a discoteque. Now, in addition to the inn, he operates a cooking school in his 25 room house near the castello of Arcidosso. His wife Pascale is an architectural designer from Paris – a former model for Armani and Versace. That is a picture of our lunch below – not Pascale!

Carlo gave us a little recipe book from the cooking school. The recipe and sentiment come from him, the beer pairing from us.  Because the Crocus beer from Amiata contains saffron, we thought it would be delightful paired with risotto.  Crocus will be coming in later in the year.  In the meantime, substitute a glass of Contessa or a Montepulciano wine.

Risotto a Funghi Porcini (Risotto with Porcini mushrooms)

During the spring and fall in Tuscany and Arcidosso, people venture out into the woods of Monte Amiata in search of the rare to find and prestigious porcini. In order to preserve the mushroom for the rest of the year, many dry them, then use them to prepare pasta sauces and risotto.

INGREDIENTS

17 ounces of Arborio rice
2 handfuls of dried procini mushrooms
1 chopped onion
Extra Virgin Olive oil
Warm water
Salt & Pepper

PREPARATION

Place the dry porcini mushrooms in a bowl and cover with warm water. Let them soak for at least 30 minutes. Using a strainer, get rid of all the sediment in the water.  Do not throw away the water since you’ll use it in the risotto.  Using your hands, squeeze the mushrooms to get rid of the excess water. Meanwhile, finely chop the onions and place in the medium sized pot with some olive oil. Add the mushrooms with a little water. Cook at low to medium heat stirring continuously. Add the rice and then some more water. Keep stirring the rice and adding warm water to the pot. Add salt and pepper.  Once the rice is al dente, the risotto is ready. Serve with grated parmesan cheese.

The team at Ristorante Miramare in Marina di Castagneto Carducci

Herb Roasted Chicken and Roasted Baby Root Vegetables

Savory, sweet, and succulent, roasted chicken pairs well with a range of beers, and especially well with Contessa.  Contessa’s sweet and bitter American hops complement the savory herbs, and the beer’s sugary caramel notes add dimension to this simple, flavorful dish.  And if you pick up an especially plump chicken, Contessa’s carbonation and hops will help cleanse the palate of chicken grease.

This herb roasted chicken and roasted baby root vegetables recipe is from Emeril Lagasse.  Photo credit goes to Food Network.

Ingredients


Herb Roasted Chicken:

1 (3 1/2 to 4-pound) whole chicken
1 1/2 tablespoons salt
2 teaspoons black pepper
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 tablespoon chopped thyme leaves
1/2 tablespoon chopped sage leaves
2 tablespoons chopped parsley leaves (reserve the parsley stems)
1/2 cup olive oil
1 lemon, quartered
2 bay leaves


Baby Root Vegetables:
1/4 pound baby turnips, peeled and stem ends trimmed
1/4 pound baby red carrots, peeled and stem ends trimmed
1/4 pound orange carrots, peeled and stem ends trimmed
1/4 pound baby golden beets, peeled and stem ends trimmed
1/4 pound baby beets, peeled and stem ends trimmed
1/4 pound fingerling potatoes, halved
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1/4 cup olive oil

Directions

Preheat the oven to 475 degrees F.

Wash the chicken and pat dry. Season well inside and out with the salt and pepper. In a small bowl, combine the garlic, thyme, sage, parsley and olive oil. Rub the olive oil and herb blend into the cavity of the chicken as well as all over the exterior. Place the parsley stems into the cavity of the chicken, and squeeze each lemon quarter into the chicken and place the rind in as well. Put the bay leaves inside the chicken and place the bird in a roasting pan or a saute pan, and put it into the oven. Roast for about 1 hour, or until the chicken is golden brown, and the juices run clear. Remove from the oven and let sit for 10 minutes before carving.

For the vegetables: Place the vegetables in a large mixing bowl, and season with the salt and pepper.  Drizzle with the olive oil and place in a roasting pan or on a sheet pan. Place in the oven and roast for 30 minutes, turning once midway during cooking to ensure even browning. Serve with the herb roasted chicken.

Double Binchoise Pancakes: peachy keen with Pêche Mel.

Among other things, Binche, located in the Belgian province of Hainut, is famous for their local pancakes, known as doubles.  Made with both flour and buckwheat flour, as well as a dash of Binchoise beer (or, in this case, Pêche Mel) the pancakes are stacked and filled with a strong Belgian cheese.

Double Binchoise pancakes

Recipe and photo from the Belgian Tourist Office

Preparation time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 5 minutes

Ingredients (serves 6; yield: 12 pancakes) 
400g buckwheat flour
250ml blonde Binchoise beer or Pêche Mel
300ml milk
1 ripe Boulette or Herve Piquant cheese
100g butter or lard
6 eggs

Preparation

Make the pancake batter by beating together the buckwheat flour, eggs, beer and 25g of melted butter or lard in a bowl.

Let the batter rest in the refrigerator for 30 mins, then make the pancakes in a frying pan coated with melted butter or lard.

Spread a pancake with the cheese, then make a sandwich with another pancake on top and fry these double pancakes until the cheese melts.

Serve the double pancake on a plate and place a knob of butter on top to melt into it. Season sparingly with salt and pepper.

Borinage Pagnons: A sweet companion for Pêche Mel

Borinage pagnons are little sugar pies that beg to be dunked in coffee, hot chocolate, or drank with a big, fruity beer like Pêche Mel.  To put it generously, my French is less than fluent.  However, I believe that “borinage pagnons” translates to “borinage companions,” which is absurdly adorable.

Borinage pagnons: the sweetest little companion for Pêche Mel.

Borinage Pagnons

Recipe and photo from the Belgian Tourist Office

Preparation time: 2 hours
Cooking time: 15 to 20 minutes

Ingredients for 6 small pagnons:
300g plain flour
100g melted butter
30g yeast, blended with warm milk
2 eggs
Pinch of salt
2 tsp caster sugar
Golden granulated sugar
Black coffee

Preparation

Sieve the flour into a bowl and add the eggs, melted butter, yeast, salt and sugar.

Bring the mixture together with a fork, then with your hands and knead well.

Leave the mixture to rise in a warm place for 2 hours.

Split the risen mixture into two balls and press them into buttered sandwich cake tins.

Leave to rise a little more.

Press your fingers into the mixture to make holes and fill them with the granulated sugar and a few drops of coffee.

Bake in a hot oven (200°C [around 390°F]) for 15 to 20 minutes and then leave to cool.

Serve with coffee or hot chocolate for a delicious tea-time treat, or serve with Pêche Mel for a sweet happy hour snack or after dinner dessert!

What’s the rarest beer in our collection at the moment? Vecchia Doppia Bastarda!

A few months ago, we posted a charming story, written by Johan Dal (a student at Slow Food School of Gastronomy in Bra), about the Cerullo Brothers and their innovative Tuscan Brewery .  We are wrapping up the Belgian portino of our journey and headed to Tuscany in a couple of days to visit with Birra Amiata brewers Gennaro and Claudio Cerullo.

Contessa is one of the very few Italian craft beers to earn 5 stars from Slow Food’s Guide to beer.  In addition to  beautiful prosecco-style bottles and kegs of Contessa, Claudio and Gennaro Cerullo sent a special shipment of Vecchia Doppia Bastarda for us to share. There are an exquisitely small number of these 30 liter kegs just now making their way to the market. By all means grab some if you see it. This is the beer that convinced us we had to import the beers from Amiata.

The Doppia Vecchia Bastarda is a top-fermented beer made with heirloom chestnuts from the Monte Amiata region, it uses Belgian yeast. Once brewed, the beer is placed in Bolgheri wine casks for nine months to ripen.  The beer is chestnut in color (albeit with shades of brown) it has  a nose of vanilla, and an aroma coming from the barrel, both vinous and chestnut.

The Monte Amiata  has long been considered the ideal for the cultivation of chestnuts, so much so that since the fourteenth century statutes imposed on communities around Mount Amiata provided strict rules for the protection and exploitation of the chestnut resource, both for the collection of fruits and for the production of timber. The combination of the acidic soil, deeps aquifers and balanced microclimate give the Amiata chestnuts unique organoleptic characteristics. The protected status of the chestnut forests means trees are not treated with synthetic fertilizers or pesticides. The chestnuts are harvested by hand or with suitable systems to maintain the integrity and quality of the product.

The chestnuts are dried by the local method through the heat from the fire and smoke of burning beech or chestnut, and then threshed (removal of the peel), making them suitable to be ground in special mills, and be transformed into chestnut flour. The Amiata brewery buys its chestnuts from a local producers’ consortium. Chestnut is added in the early stages of brewing, not only with the task of providing a distinctive flavor to beer, but also to yield starches that then transform into simple sugars and then into alcohol by yeast. The Doppio Bastarda is  produced using 10 different varieties of malt, 2 different types of hops and 40% (of fermentable) PGI chestnut Amiata. Water, from the aqueduct of the Fiora, very pure and light, because of filtering through long layers of porous rock of volcanic origin, is also a key ingredient.

Serving suggestions:

Stews and braised dishes, cooked with beer itself. Wild boar or venison stew, turkey stuffed with chestnuts, sausages and cheeses, perhaps to be consumed with the approaching of chestnut honey. Lamprey. In Corsica the chestnut beer is particularly popular in combination with blue fish grilled or barbecued. Among the desserts are to be combined: sweet chestnut polenta with ricotta, chestnut cake, panna cotta with chestnut Mont Blanc.


Biere de Miel Pancakes with Apples

In Dutch, these pancakes go by the name “boerpannekoeken met bier en appelkes,” while in French, they are called “crepes campagnards a la biere et aux pommes.” In either language, these pancakes are delicious. Pancakes are a peasant favorite in Belgium and taste great when prepared with Bière de Miel. The addition of sweet, caramelized apples makes them truly irresistible.

For a genuine “Belgian” touch, spread these lovely pancakes with Poiret, a thick syrup made with pears and apples.

This recipe was developed by Ruth Van Waerebeek, our friend and author of “Everybody Eats Well in Belgium.”

Ingredients (yield: 16-20 pancakes)
For the pancakes:
2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon (optional)
3 large egg yolks
2 1/2 to 3 cups Bière de Miel
2 tablespoons butter, melted
3 large egg whites, beaten to soft peaks
4 tablespoons of butter, softened at room temperature, for baking

For the apples:
4 firm apples, peeled, cored, and thinly sliced.
3 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons sugar

In a large mixing bowl, sift the flour with the salt, sugar and cinnamon (if used). Make a well in the center. Add the yolks and half of the beer in a steady stream and whisk, gradually drawing in the flour. Add the butter and enough beer to obtain a smooth batter with the consistency of heavy cream. Carefully fold in the egg whites. Cover the bowl and let stand for 30 minutes.

In the meantime, prepare the caramelized apples. Heat the butter in a large skillet and fry the apple slices, in batches, over high heat until lightly browned. Turn the apple slices, sprinkle with sugar and caramelize. Reserve.

Place an 8- or 9- inch skillet over medium heat and brush with butter. If the batter is too thick, thin with a little more beer. Pour a small ladle of batter into the pan, tilt the pan as to cover its entire surface. Quickly arrange 4 to 5 slices of apple on top (before the batter sets), and bake until lightly browned on the bottom. Turn the pancake with a spatula and brown the other side.

Stack the cooked pancakes on a warm plate and serve as soon as possible (or keep warm in a preheated oven). Sprinkle the pancakes with powdered sugar, or serve with Poiret, a typical apple and pear syrup.

Note: these delicious pancakes are just as appreciated when served plain, without the apples. Try them with breakfast sausages or crisp bacon.

Bière de Miel Bread Roll

Bread made with Bière de Miel is sure to pair with, well, Bière de Miel.  This recipe comes directly from our friends at Brasserie Dupont. The honey beer gives a delicate sweetness to the rolls.

Ingredients:
300 grams white flour
180 grams butter
3 eggs
30 grams granulated sugar
15 grams fresh yeast
12 ounces Dupont Biere de Miel
1 pinch of salt

Mix the sugar and the eggs, then beat thoroughly to produce a shiny mixture. Sift the flour and mix with the butter, beer, and yeast. Add the egg mixture to the flour concoction and knead for at least 10 minutes. Finally, add the pinch of salt. Allow the dough to stand for 45 minutes in a covered pot.

Once the dough has risen, press it lightly and place it in a buttered and floured tin. Allow the dough to rise again for 45 minutes.

To give the bread a shiny dark brown color, carefully spread an egg yolk – diluted with water – over the dough before baking.

Pre-heat the oven to 350 degrees F, making sure to place a small cup of water at the bottom of the oven to provide moisture. Bake the dough for 30 minutes.

Avril & Spring “Oven-Fried Cornflake” Chicken

Avril is crazy good with fried chicken.  Crazy.  Good.

But if you don’t want to deal with the mess of frying chicken (i.e. grease splatters and a home that smells like chicken for days on end), our friend – Kelsey Banfield, the Naptime Chef – has an amazing oven-fried alternative.  For more delicious recipes, check out Kelsey’s blog or her recently published book: The Naptime Chef: Fitting Great Food into Family Life.

Recipe and photo from The Naptime Chef

Grandma Pat’s Oven-Fried Cornflake Chicken

Ingredients

3 large chicken breasts or chicken tenders
1 cup Italian dressing (preferably low-fat)
1 tablespoon garlic salt
3 cups crushed Corn Flakes

Instructions

1. Preheat the oven to 350F.  If the chicken breasts are thick use a mallet to pound them until ¼ thinness. Most tenders are thin enough you won’t need to do this. This recipe also works with thighs so feel free to use bone-in meat as well.

2. Pour the Italian dressing into a ziploc bag and add the chicken to marinate for 5 minutes. Meanwhile, add the crushed corn flakes to a plastic bag and add the garlic salt to them. Transfer the chicken to the corn flakes bag and toss well so the chicken is completely coated.

3. Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil and bake the chicken for about 30 minutes, or until it is cooked through. Serve hot!


Spring Recipes for Spring Beers

Ah, spring – when a young man’s fancy lightly turns to thoughts of love.  But even more delicious than love are the tender foods of spring, especially the ones from Gourmet’s April 2008 issue  (R.I.P., you glorious magazine, R.I.P.).  The spring-inspired recipes that follow pair exceptionally well with any of our organic beers: Avril, Foret, Foret Blanche, Bière de Miel, and Jade.  And it’s no wonder – Gourmet was early on the organic beer bandwagon, and its editor, James Rodewald, admired our beers:

“Today, some of the best know Saisons are made by Brasserie Dupont, a farmhouse brewery in western Belgium. Its Saison Dupont Vieille Provision is crisp and well balanced, with a hint of citrus and a slightly bitter finish that leaves you eager for more. Foret, an organic saison made by Dupont, shares the bitter finish of Vieille Provision but is spicy and earthier-tasting. It evokes newly mown grass, another sure sign of summer.”

To experience springtime cooking at its best, crack open an Avril as you peruse or prepare one of these dishes: